CHAPTERS:


EAST OF THE SUN AND WEST OF THE MOON

I never knew where "east of the sun and west of the moon" was.


THE SEED IS PLANTED

Goriano Valli is more beautiful than I had even imagined. And la famiglia is more plentiful than I ever knew. In a promethean moment, the seed flowers.


LA AVVENTURA BEGINS

"Un'altra avventuri!" Maria Alessandra would exclaim as we shared each new experience. She asks "hai paura?" – am I afraid to stay alone in the big house? How do I explain that my biggest emotion is that of feeling like an immigrant? Learning Italian is not coming as easily as I had hoped.


THE CIMITERO, THE MOUNTAIN GARDEN AND VILLAGE LIFE

At the cemetery, Ezio shows me a picture of the man who astonished everybody by sitting up in his coffin at his first funeral! I don't get to go tartufo hunting, but I do get to go to Pietro and Giulio's mountain garden where they picked me a big bag of artichokes. I am amused by Italian sentiment, expressed in song and in comedy routines, toward Americans in the l950's.


MORE AVVENTURI

Every day brings something new to do. We visit the abandoned village – a "make over" target if I ever saw one - way at the top of a mountain. We join in pre-wedding festivities and a wedding, shop for groceries in San Demetrio, cap 100 bottles of wine, and mourn the poisoning of three dogs. A young child asks his mother why I talk so funny. Ouch!


VERBI, GARDENS, AND MID SUMMERS NIGHT

July 24 is the Notte Magica di San Giovanni Battista-St John the Baptist, and it is also the night in Shakespeare's "Mid Summers Night Dream" when the wishes of man became a reality. Were I only brave enough I would go into the forest at dawn, let the dew fall on me, and make my dreams come true.


THE MEDICAL GUARD

What happens if we get sick? The Medical Guard to the rescue!

IL SIRENTE

Vincenzo wants us to experience Il Sirente, not just from afar, but by climbing up into these glorious mountains. We share the beauty of these mountains with cows, cinghiale, and flies.

TARTUFO – A CASE OF SERENDIPITY

If they found tartufo, the illusive and expensive truffle, in Goriano Valli, why can't we find them in America? They are eating them here as casually as eating a sandwich!

GRAN SASSO, SHEPHERDS AND ZAFFERNO

Gran Sasso, this enormous Apennine mountain peak, known for skiing, trekking, and Mussolini, translates, in a curious twist of Italian humor, to the "big stone!"

"Settembre, andiamo, E'tempo di emigrare." It's September, let's go, it's time to migrate. How beautiful these words are from the poem "I Pastori."

ASSIMILATION: SHOPPING AND TELEVISION

In our new life we shop in San Demetrio and L'Aquila and are getting used to "Chiuso per Ferie" – such an Italian thing and definitely not an American thing.

From the time since I started writing this book to now, American women, even our serious newswomen, have started displaying cleavage like I was so surprised to see on Italian television.


A DAY TRIP TO ROME AND THE SNOW EVENT

Three hours and we're in Rome! How much fun is that!


THE EXITEMENT BUILDS, FRA BERNARDINO AND LEGAMBIENTE

Canonization of a saint, an art exhibit, and Legambiente – just a few things on the agenda as we eagerly anticipate the festa.


THE FESTA

From the first performance of young children, to the evening festivities, to the ringing of the church bells, to the parading with the saints, to the closing with the fire works, this was a four-day festa to be treasured.


FERRAGOSTO

When Mussolini was asked if it was difficult to rule Italians, he responded, "It is not difficult, but it is useless." I am beginning to understand this.

FAMILY STORIES I NEVER KNEW

The war changed everybody's life – some for the bitter, some for the better.


THE FESTA IN TIONE

A magical night of music, fireworks, and marching Pied Piper-style to the church.


SCORPIONS, THE RECALCITRANT CAT AND ANOTHER FESTA

We learn to live with Scorpions. The cat, uninvited, joins us for dinner.


TOUR DI ITALIA

There is more to Italy than just Goriano Valli!


BACK IN GORIANO – A THEFT IN THE CHURCH

In the dead of night, a stone's throw from our house, thieves pillaged the church.


FESTA FOR LA DONNA ADDOLORATA

So much history comes with each event, even the name of the group performing–Fontamara.


TO POMPEI AND MONTECASSINO WITH TWO BUSLOADS OF ITALIANS

Eating was just as much a part of the trip as visiting these famous sites or not visiting them as was the case with Montecassino.


SULMONA AND SAN VENANZIO

Great architectural sites, a medieval history, colorful shops selling confetti, and interesting festas. On Easter Monday doves are released to the heavens and in a May procession, snakes adorn the statue of San Domenico.

THE AMERICANI ARRIVE

Their first exposure to Italian life is the BUS POLICE. Thank goodness we had purchased tickets.

THE FESTA IN CASTELVECCHIO, SAN VENANZIO AND THE MISADVENTURE

For seasoned travelers who have already seen Italy, our off-the-beaten track adventures and misadventures, are the stuff of memories – especially the climb up the tomb-like steps.


ROCCA DI MEZZO AND FONTECCHIO

Rocca di Mezzo, a thriving ski town, boasted an unusual festa about President Clinton and Monica Lewinsky. Our magical nighttime tour of Fontecchio led to steep inclines, frescoes and a painting of Mussolini.


THE REUNION OF THE COUSINS

A long table is set for twenty and the courses began – one after another after another – until the final digestives. Then a toast to those present and to those no longer with us. They never forget their forbearers. The American cousins and the Italian cousins unite after a lifetime of separation.

THE HATFIELDS AND THE MC COYS ITALIAN STYLE

This is a story of desperation, extreme poverty, scandal, a priest's love, and eloquence in the courtroom. To the victor belongs the spoils.

MY COUSIN PETER'S ROOTS

Some roots get pulled up and are never replanted.

TORTORETO

"I tot I taw a putty tat" heard by pulling a string on Tweety Bird hanging from the ceiling in Fausto's palestra has been perplexing my Italian cousin. Tortoreto is a beautiful beach town on the Adriatic Sea.


HIDDEN ITINERARIES

Scanno, Santo Stefano di Sessanio, Rocca Calascio, and Castel del Monte are just a few wonderful places to visit. I cannot believe my eyes when I see houses, seemingly suspended in air, protruding from the side of a mountain.


THE AMERICANI WIND DOWN

As a farewell to the Americani, we have a European blackout!


LAST STOP – MODENA

La "Mercatini del Gusto" – a food festival in Italia! I can hardly believe my good fortune.


GOING HOME REDUX

East of the sun and west of the moon is no longer a mystery. There is a Goriano Valli. I've been there.

 

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