CHAPTERS:
EAST OF THE SUN AND WEST OF THE MOON
I never knew where "east of the sun and west of the moon" was.
THE SEED IS PLANTED
Goriano Valli is more beautiful than I had even imagined. And
la famiglia is more plentiful than I ever knew. In a promethean
moment, the seed flowers.
LA AVVENTURA BEGINS
"Un'altra avventuri!" Maria Alessandra would exclaim
as we shared each new experience. She asks "hai paura?" – am
I afraid to stay alone in the big house? How do I explain that
my biggest emotion is that of feeling like an immigrant? Learning
Italian is not coming as easily as I had hoped.
THE CIMITERO, THE MOUNTAIN GARDEN AND VILLAGE LIFE
At the cemetery, Ezio shows me a picture of the man who
astonished everybody by sitting up in his coffin at his first funeral!
I don't get to go tartufo hunting, but I do get to go to
Pietro and Giulio's mountain garden where they picked me
a big bag of artichokes. I am amused by Italian sentiment,
expressed in song and in comedy routines, toward Americans
in the l950's.
MORE AVVENTURI
Every day brings something new to do. We visit the abandoned
village – a "make over" target if I ever
saw one - way at the top of a mountain. We join in pre-wedding
festivities and a wedding, shop for groceries in San Demetrio,
cap 100 bottles of wine, and mourn the poisoning of three
dogs. A young child asks his mother why I talk so funny.
Ouch!
VERBI, GARDENS, AND MID SUMMERS NIGHT
July 24 is the Notte Magica di San Giovanni Battista-St
John the Baptist, and it is also the night in Shakespeare's "Mid
Summers Night Dream" when the wishes of man became a
reality. Were I only brave enough I would go into the forest
at dawn, let the dew fall on me, and make my dreams come
true.
THE MEDICAL GUARD
What happens if we get sick? The Medical Guard to the rescue!
IL SIRENTE
Vincenzo wants us to experience Il Sirente, not just from
afar, but by climbing up into these glorious mountains. We
share the beauty of these mountains with cows, cinghiale,
and flies.
TARTUFO – A CASE OF SERENDIPITY
If they found tartufo, the illusive and expensive truffle,
in Goriano Valli, why can't we find them in America? They
are eating them here as casually as eating a sandwich!
GRAN SASSO, SHEPHERDS AND ZAFFERNO
Gran Sasso, this enormous Apennine mountain peak, known
for skiing, trekking, and Mussolini, translates, in a curious
twist of Italian humor, to the "big stone!"
"Settembre, andiamo, E'tempo di emigrare." It's
September, let's go, it's time to migrate. How beautiful
these words are from the poem "I Pastori."
ASSIMILATION: SHOPPING AND TELEVISION
In our new life we shop in San Demetrio and L'Aquila and
are getting used to "Chiuso per Ferie" – such
an Italian thing and definitely not an American thing.
From the time since I started writing this book to now,
American women, even our serious newswomen, have started
displaying cleavage like I was so surprised to see on Italian
television.
A DAY TRIP TO ROME AND THE SNOW EVENT
Three hours and we're in Rome! How much fun is that!
THE EXITEMENT BUILDS, FRA BERNARDINO AND LEGAMBIENTE
Canonization of a saint, an art exhibit, and Legambiente – just
a few things on the agenda as we eagerly anticipate the festa.
THE FESTA
From the first performance of young children, to the evening
festivities, to the ringing of the church bells, to the parading
with the saints, to the closing with the fire works, this
was a four-day festa to be treasured.
FERRAGOSTO
When Mussolini was asked if it was difficult to rule Italians,
he responded, "It is not difficult, but it is useless." I
am beginning to understand this.
FAMILY STORIES I NEVER KNEW
The war changed everybody's life – some for the
bitter, some for the better.
THE FESTA IN TIONE
A magical night of music, fireworks, and marching Pied
Piper-style to the church.
SCORPIONS, THE RECALCITRANT CAT AND ANOTHER FESTA
We learn to live with Scorpions. The cat, uninvited, joins
us for dinner.
TOUR DI ITALIA
There is more to Italy than just Goriano Valli!
BACK IN GORIANO – A THEFT IN THE CHURCH
In the dead of night, a stone's throw from our house, thieves
pillaged the church.
FESTA FOR LA DONNA ADDOLORATA
So much history comes with each event, even the name of
the group performing–Fontamara.
TO POMPEI AND MONTECASSINO WITH TWO BUSLOADS OF ITALIANS
Eating was just as much a part of the trip as visiting
these famous sites or not visiting them as was the case with
Montecassino.
SULMONA AND SAN VENANZIO
Great architectural sites, a medieval history, colorful
shops selling confetti, and interesting festas. On Easter
Monday doves are released to the heavens and in a May procession,
snakes adorn the statue of San Domenico.
THE AMERICANI ARRIVE
Their first exposure to Italian life is the BUS POLICE.
Thank goodness we had purchased tickets.
THE FESTA IN CASTELVECCHIO, SAN VENANZIO AND THE MISADVENTURE
For seasoned travelers who have already seen Italy, our
off-the-beaten track adventures and misadventures, are the
stuff of memories – especially the climb up the tomb-like
steps.
ROCCA DI MEZZO AND FONTECCHIO
Rocca di Mezzo, a thriving ski town, boasted an unusual
festa about President Clinton and Monica Lewinsky. Our magical
nighttime tour of Fontecchio led to steep inclines, frescoes
and a painting of Mussolini.
THE REUNION OF THE COUSINS
A long table is set for twenty and the courses began – one
after another after another – until the final digestives.
Then a toast to those present and to those no longer with
us. They never forget their forbearers. The American cousins
and the Italian cousins unite after a lifetime of separation.
THE HATFIELDS AND THE MC COYS ITALIAN STYLE
This is a story of desperation, extreme poverty, scandal,
a priest's love, and eloquence in the courtroom. To the victor
belongs the spoils.
MY COUSIN PETER'S ROOTS
Some roots get pulled up and are never replanted.
TORTORETO
"I tot I taw a putty tat" heard by pulling a
string on Tweety Bird hanging from the ceiling in Fausto's
palestra has been perplexing my Italian cousin. Tortoreto
is a beautiful beach town on the Adriatic Sea.
HIDDEN ITINERARIES
Scanno, Santo Stefano di Sessanio, Rocca Calascio, and
Castel del Monte are just a few wonderful places to visit.
I cannot believe my eyes when I see houses, seemingly suspended
in air, protruding from the side of a mountain.
THE AMERICANI WIND DOWN
As a farewell to the Americani, we have a European blackout!
LAST STOP – MODENA
La "Mercatini del Gusto" – a food festival
in Italia! I can hardly believe my good fortune.
GOING HOME REDUX
East of the sun and west of the moon is no longer a mystery.
There is a Goriano Valli. I've been there.